South Korea's Dog Meat Industry on Brink of Extinction
· food
The Last Hurrah of South Korea’s Dog Meat Industry
As I walked through Moran Market in Seongnam, near Seoul, on a sweltering August day this year, desolation hung in the air. Once a bustling hub for dog meat restaurants, the market now felt like a shadow of its former self. Elderly customers seeking traditional dog meat dishes outnumbered the crowds that once packed the alleyways.
South Korea’s dog meat industry is on the brink of extinction due to a nationwide ban on breeding, slaughtering, and selling dogs for meat, which will take full effect in February 2027. The government’s support for affected businesses and farmers is welcome but may be too little, too late. This decline has been steady over the years, with many restaurants struggling to adapt.
Lee Kang-chun, a veteran of the trade who has spent 37 years serving dog meat, seems torn between acknowledging the industry’s demise and clinging to tradition. He admits that the change is “right” in terms of South Korea’s global image and shifting social attitudes but struggles to hide his sadness at losing loyal customers.
The shift towards alternative dishes like black goat stew has been gradual, with many restaurant owners struggling to adapt. A survey released before the law passed in 2024 showed that nearly 95% of respondents had not eaten dog meat in the previous year, and over 90% said they had no intention of eating it in future. This seismic shift is largely driven by rising pet ownership and growing awareness of animal rights.
The campaign to end the dog meat trade gained momentum under former President Yoon Suk Yeol and his wife, former first lady Kim Keon Hee, an outspoken animal welfare advocate who publicly backed a ban. This highlights the complex interplay between politics, public opinion, and social change.
As the industry winds down, it’s worth considering what this means for those involved – not just restaurant owners and farmers but also customers who have grown up with dog meat as part of their culinary tradition. For some like Yoo Jin-sam, 69, who has been eating dog meat since his early twenties, it’s a loss that will be deeply felt. “I love dogs very much,” he says wistfully, “but it’s still unfortunate.”
The question now is what comes next for Moran Market and the surrounding area. With many restaurants struggling to adapt, it’s unclear whether the market can regain its former vitality. The government’s promised support for affected businesses will be crucial in determining their fate.
As I left the market on that sweltering August day, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of melancholy. The dog meat industry may be on its last legs, but it’s not just about the food – it’s about tradition, community, and the complex emotions that come with change.
Reader Views
- TKThe Kitchen Desk · editorial
The impending demise of South Korea's dog meat industry is a welcome shift, but it raises questions about the fate of affected farmers and vendors who may be left high and dry by the government's support measures. Will this new era also mean an influx of rescued dogs into shelters, or will rehoming efforts keep pace with the expected influx? It's time for animal welfare groups to join forces with government agencies to ensure a smooth transition for both humans and animals in need.
- CDChef Dani T. · line cook
While the demise of South Korea's dog meat industry is a welcome shift in attitudes towards animal welfare, we can't ignore the economic and cultural consequences of this shift. Small-scale farmers who have bred dogs for generations will need support beyond just compensation for lost livestock; they'll require training to adapt to new markets or industries. A blanket ban without long-term planning could leave these families stranded.
- PMPat M. · home cook
The dog meat industry's collapse isn't just a moral victory, but also a testament to the power of cultural evolution. What I find most interesting is how this shift will impact the traditional cooks who've made their livelihoods from these dishes. Will they adapt and innovate with new recipes, or struggle to make ends meet in a changing market? It's not all good news: as demand for dog meat plummets, the surge of dogs being abandoned by their owners could create a whole new welfare crisis.